In selecting a joint, there are a number of factors to consider:

• Cost – the more expensive joints can add up quickly, especially since a standard 4-link front and rear suspension uses 16 joints.
• Adjustability – if you need adjustable-length links, you will have to choose a joint with a threaded shank that offers this feature.
• Strength – you need to match the strength of your tube to the strength of your joint. It is pointless to attach a 2” x ½” Cr-Mo tube to a cheap ¾” Heim joint.
• Size – As with all things, as strength increases, generally so does size. Make sure your link / bracket design and placement leave adequate room for the joints
• Rebuildability – Damage and wear are almost a given – any good joint should offer the ability to be rebuilt without having to fabricate a whole new link.
• Lubrication – The “sealed vs greasable” debate is timeless and boils down to personal choice. Depending on the conditions of use and your preference, you may wish to use joints that can be periodically lubricated. Some joints are “self lubricating” meaning they use some sort of chemical-impregnated cup or liner that lubricates the bearing.
• Size of bolt hole – Something you need to consider, especially before fabricating brackets, as many of the largest and strongest joints use a very large bolt hole.
• Misalignment capacity – Make sure the joint you use will work with your suspension design without causing excessive binding that will limit suspension performance and cause excessive wear and damage to components. Consider whether the joint offers spacers to increase misalignment capacity.

The following table provides a comparison of the basic specs of the different joints.

RE Large Bearing

Poly Performance Uniball

All three of these joints have their strengths and weaknesses, and their appropriate applications. Looking for a low-cost all-round joint that will perform well and not break the bank? - then the RE bearing is your choice. Have a big, hardcore rig you love to abuse and afraid that plastic inserts and 9/16" mounting bolts won't stand up? If it's the ultimate in adjustable brute strength you need - Evolution is the way to go. Have a smaller or high-performance buggy that needs super-tight, trouble free, max performance suspension links and/or just have to have the bling - look to Poly Performance's trick Uniball joints.

In my own rig I used a combination of all three joints as follows:

For my front lower links I used fixed length links with an RE bearing at each end for the following reasons:

• I don't need adjustable-length links as my front axle location has been dialled in and fixed for some time.
• I needed the smaller mounting width of the RE joints to fit in the brackets on my axle.
• The frame-side brackets were also already in place for RE bearings, as I had used them before in that location and been very happy with them.
• Because front lower links take a lot of abuse, but making them over-size eats up valuable clearance I wanted to use 2" OD x 3/8" wall tube for my front lowers, which is a perfect size for these joints.

For my front upper link I used two Evolution joints and 2-1/4” x ¼” tube because:

• As a single upper link, this link sees tremendous stress from both locating the axle and counteracting drivetrain torque (preventing pinion wrap).
• I wanted an adjustable joint at each end, one left-hand and one right-hand so that I could adjust the links length and therefore front pinion angle without removing the link from the vehicle.
• I had plenty of room to fit both the large tube and the brackets required for the Evolution joints.

For my rear links I chose a mix of Poly Performance Uniballs and Evolution Joints as follows:

• I used the Uniballs at the frame-end of the lower links and upper wishbone for their precision, compact size, and misalignment capability. Up near the frame they are relatively well protected and less subject to immersion in water and mud. Also, because there are no internal threads in the body of the joint to warp, they are easier than the RE joints to weld to the tube.
• I used Evolution joints at the axle-end of the lowers so that I'd have some adjustability in the links, and because their beef makes them ideal for this location where they hang low and often get bashed and abused. I also had plenty of room to locate new brackets on the rear axle.
• I used an Evolution joint as the single joint at the back of my rear-upper wishbone link as, being a single joint, it sees a lot of force and loading. Once again, the shear size and strength of the Evolution Joints make them ideal for this sort of use.