My personal favourite is the 2" harness with "easy in & out" shoulder harnesses sewn to the lap belts.

They incorporate a bunch of unique and innovative features that add up to create a very user-friendly, comfortable, and convenient system.

Let's have a look at them one at a time.

First and foremost, the shoulder straps are sewn directly to the lap belts. This makes getting into the harness much easier, and greatly simplifies the buckling of the harness - one link, one latch - that's it!

Not only is this great for kids, wives, and other occasional users - but it's great for regular drivers too.

In fact, the design makes it awkward and uncomfortable to try and just use the lap belt only.

So - easier to do it right, and less comfortable to do it wrong - that's a safety advantage in the real world.

But what about those times when rockcrawlers need some extra manoeuvering room to hang out and get a good view of the rocks? This is one of the occasions when I see people using lap belts only. Problem is - with a traditional latch-and-link system it's a pain in the ass to undo the buckle, take off the shoulder straps, re-buckle the lap belt, and then re-do it all once through the tricky spot.

So people just leave off their shoulder straps - which isn't good.

Even with the buckle springs that keep the straps from loosening, these tabs allow you to get a good grip and loosen the buckle off easily.

This way, you can keep the shoulder straps on at all times (good), use the tabs to easily loosen them occasionally when really needed (dodgy, but unavoidable sometimes), and then easily cinch the straps down again (good).

All the Pro Armor harnesses come with integrated padding on the shoulder straps - and it is really nice and comfortable padding with an excellent feel to it.

Not all harnesses are equal here and these are among the best I have used.

It too fits perfectly in the pocket, and right on the harness is a great place to keep it in case one was to ever get trapped and need to cut out in a hurry.

That said, another advantage of this harness design is that without the shoulder strap buckles, there is less chance for the latch-n-link buckle system to jam when under tension.

I should note that these sewn-together harnesses have passed all SFI testing but are not SFI certified for racing.

... that fits neatly in the mesh pocket. The light turn on and off with a simple press on the front face of it.

Now you have ready source of light, independent of vehicle power, right at your fingertips at all times.

Cool!

For those the prefer a 3" belt, or traditional buckling, or require SFI certification, Pro Armor also offer 3" 5-point SFI-approved H-style Harnesses.

They have all the same great features of the 2" harness, except the shoulder belts are not sewn onto the lap belt and must be buckled on.

The Pro Armor harnesses come with an excellent set of instruction, including printed copies of the following two SFI documents:

1. SEATBELT INSTALLATION GUIDE FOR UPRIGHT SEATING, June 5, 2012 (depicted at left); and
2. SEAT BELTS Essential to Driver Safety by Jennifer M. Faye, June 14, 2012

Therefore I don't intend to repeat all that information, but there are a few things I think are worth pointing out.

First, all the tabs on all the harnesses, including the 2", are drilled for 1/2" bolts.

I like to use name-brand Grade-8 bolts with all-metal deformed-thread locknuts.

As explained in the installation instructions, the 3-bar slides on the shoulder straps must be adjusted to length and then completed with triple wrap.

The 3-bar slide must also be installed as close to the tab as possible as shown here.

The position of the tab and 3-bar slide on the shoulder strap will determine the position of the shoulder-strap pads and sternum strap in relation to the seat (and your body).

Recall the warning label stating that the sternum strap must be at least 4" below the neck? This is where that adjustment is made. You may have to make a few adjustments to get it right, and each will require you to unbolt the tab and reposition it and the 3-bar slide on the shoulder strap - but it is critical to get it right.

Once you have positioned the tab and 3-bar slide and installed the straps and bolted in the tabs, get in the seat, put on the harness, and check the position of the sternum strap.

If it is too high on your body, you need to make the shoulder straps longer by moving the tab and 3-bar slide further towards the end of the shoulder straps, reattaching the tabs in their brackets, and test-fitting again.

Take the time to get it right - there's no shortcut.

The lap belts should be fed through the seat slots and bolted in place. Their tabs are sewn into the lap belts so their is no 3-bar slide adjustments to make.

You can also optionally use an anti-sub strap with the 2" harness as well as the 3".

I like to do this as it not only prevents slipping out under the harness in a collision, but also helps ensure the proper positioning of the lap belts, and prevents tightening of the shoulder straps from causing the lap belt to ride up out of position. The lap belt should should ride within the curvature of the pelvic bone preferably just below the iliac crest (top of the hip bone).

Finally, when adjusted properly, the latch-n-link buckle should be centered on the body 1 to 2 inches below the belly button when all belts are tightened.