This is the package that arrived from Estonia after I ordered the skidplates.

The package shipped from Estonia on 19 March, hit Canadian customs on 26 March, and was delivered to my house 27 March.

I paid a whopping $13.41 in duty.

The shipping weight was 16kg.

Different view to help you identify everything.

I recommend laying everything out neatly like this before you begin the installation.

The first step is to get the ATV in a comfortable position to work on. You can do the job with it on a stand, or even sitting on the ground, but it will be more challenging.

I decided to winch the front end up to a beam in the ceiling of my shop and work on it standing up on its back end.

If you choose this method, make sure whatever you use to support the front end can safely take the weight.

Also, it's a good idea to use some sort of protection to prevent the winch cable from chaffing the front bumper as you winch it up and down.

Once winched up into position I strapped it in place, as the next step required is the removal of the winch fairlead, which also requires removing the winch hook.

To remove the hook, you must pull the cotter pin from the mounting pin.

I like to use side cutters for pulling cotter pins as you can get a good "bite" on the cotter pin and also use the curve of the jaws as a lever to work the cotter pin out.

With the hook removed, next remove the winch fairlead.

The bolts take an 8mm Allen key, and the nuts a 15 mm wrench.

You will need to remove the stock A-arm skidplates (top arrows), the stock centre skidplate (middle arrow) and the stock trailing arm skidplates (bottom arrows).

The stock front skidplate (aka the "bash plate") will be re-used and will therefore remain in place.

These are all the fasteners you need to remove to get the stock skidplates off, as follows:

A - Front skidplate bolts: T40 Torx and 13mm wrench for the nuts on the back-side.
B - Front A-arm bolts: T30 Torx and 10 mm wrench for the nuts on the back-side.
C - Centre skidplate bolts: 10mm socket and 10mm wrench for the nuts on the back-side.
D - Footwell bolts: 10mm socket.
E - Rear trailing-arm skidplate bolts: T30 Torx and 10 mm wrench for the nuts on the back-side.
F - Rear trailing-arm skidplate bolts: T30 Torx and 10 mm wrench for the nuts on the back-side.

Remove the front A-arm bolts: T30 Torx and 10 mm wrench for the nuts on the back-side.

Right side.

Remove the centre skidplate bolts: 10mm socket and 10mm wrench for the nuts on the back-side.

There are six (6) in total - as shown.

Once I got the centre skid removed, a couple of "extra" fasteners fell out!

I couldn't find anywhere where there was anything missing so I suspect they may have been dropped at the factory and instead of being recovered, somebody just grabbed extras for whatever they were installing!

The last two rear trailing-arm skidplate bolts (one per side - T30 Torx and 10 mm wrench for the nuts on the back-side) are a little less obvious.

The nut is accessible from inside the wheel (red arrow).

Finally, you also have to remove two footwell bolts per side (four total) using a 10mm socket.

The positions are indicated here by the red arrows.

The bolts are removed from the top side.

Left side shown.

Close-up of the left-side footwell bolt locations, seen from underneath.

These holes will be used when the Iron Baltic footwell skidplates are installed later.

This is the hardware required for this step.

First, the water pump weep hose must be relocated, as we will be using the hole it is currently zip-tied to (red arrow).

Cut the zip tie and and install a new ziptie in one of the other holes to the right (of the bike, towards the left in this pic).

Next, remove the four stock carriage bolts indicated.

Two point to the front of the bike, and two to the rear.

Make sure, on the front cross-member, you remove the bolts that point forwards and on the rear cross-member you remove the bolts that point rearwards.

This is the hardware required for this step.

One thing I should note, there are 3 cutouts on the factory centre skidplate that are not present on the Iron Baltic centre skidplate.

They are the engine oil drain cutout (red arrow), the gearbox oil drain cutout (blue arrow) and the CVT water drain cutout (yellow arrow).

I only noticed the oil drain cutout during the install, and so will have to drill the other two next time I have the skidplates removed.

But the oil drain cutout I made by marking a point 37mm from the centre of the large hole (where a carriage bolt head fits)...

and drilling there with a 1-1/2" hole saw.

This is the hardware required for this step.

Then move to the rear right corner of the centre skidplate and install a #12 20° Angled Tab using a #26 bolt and a #33 conical washer.

Do the same on the other side.

This is the hardware required to bolt the footwell skidplates to the flat and angled tabs just installed on the centre skidplate

And this is the hardware required to bolt the footwell skidplates to the stock footwells.

First, attach the aluminum reinforcing bracket (part #14) to the inside of the front skidplate using:

This is the hardware required for the rest of the front skidplate install:

Working our way up, the next set of hardware (two #27 bolts, two #30 washers, two #33 conical washers, and two #35 nuts) can be installed in either of the two sets of holes indicated by the arrows.

I chose to use the location indicated by the red arrows as I felt the spacing was better here, but more importantly because it was much easier to get the nut on the back side in this location.

Re-install the winch hook on the winch cable and insert a new cotter pin.

This is the hardware required for the rear skidplate install:

Use three #19 bolts, three #30 washers, and three #32 dished washers to bolt the skidplate to the flat tabs on the centre skidplate (top row of red arrows in the pic).

Use the #25 bolt, a #32 dished washer and the #16 plate (acts like a nut) to bolt the skidplate through the hole in the frame indicated by the lower red arrow in the pic.

This is the hardware required for the A-arm skidplates install:

Each front A-arm skidplate has three attachment points - two clamps and a bolt with nut.

The clamps attach to the A-arm in the positions indicated by the blue arrows.

The nut and bolt connection goes through the factory hole on the A-arm indicated by the red arrow.

Use two #17 clamps along with two #20 bolts, two #30 washers, and two #32 dished washers per side.

Also use one #22 bolt, one #30washer, one #32dished washer, and one #35 nut per side, through the factory hole in the A-arm, as shown.

This is the hardware required for the rear skidplate install:

...that installs on the trailing-arm like this.

Use a #21 bolt, #30 washer, and #32 dished washer to bolt the trailing arm to the clamp

Everything installed.

After you get all the pieces installed, go over each part and check the alignment and tighten all the fasteners.

Front A-arm skidplate attachment points.

Also note the coverage and protection of the front axles / CV boots.